Despite What Your Guidebook Might Say You Cannot View the Atlantic Ocean Through a Glass Floor at the Hassan II Mosque [Guest Post]
GUEST
POSTER in residence: Justin
Casablanca’s
Hassan II Mosque is one of the few active Muslim religious sites in Morocco
that is open to non-Muslims, albeit only on a guided (paid) tour. It is a
breathtaking and
impressive building, and one of the largest mosques in the world (our
guidebooks disagree about where exactly it ranks – one says it is the second
largest, another agrees with the guide from our tour that it is third, a third
book states that it is the fifth, and Wikipedia asserts that it is seventh
largest mosque – the point is that it is big, and everyone is on the same page
about that). The Hassan II Mosque is large enough to accommodate 25,000
worshippers, but according to our guide, only about 600 people typically
attend, not including during Ramadan or for Friday mid-day prayers.
We had admired the exterior during a
previous visit to Casablanca, and on our most recent trip decided to splurge
for the tour. It isn’t terribly expensive if one is traveling on a US
salary, but the 120 Dirham (about USD 14) per person fee can feel pretty hefty, considering
that entry to most monuments and museums in Morocco costs no more than 20 Dirhams (about USD
2.40). According to our guide the money goes towards upkeep and salaries for
the staff, making the Hassan II Mosque self-sustaining. Note to other Peace
Corps Morocco Volunteers: As residents we get a 50% discount off the usual
price (bring your Moroccan ID), which was a pleasant surprise for us.
The Hassan II Mosque has no historical
significance, having been built in the late 20th century. While some
might consider it a poor allocation of funds (public
subscription, which Rough Guide
characterizes as having been “not entirely voluntary,” covered much of the
construction costs), it certainly is beautiful. And if, as our guide claimed, Hassan II’s
goal was to attract visitors to Casablanca, a city otherwise holding little of
interest for most tourists, he seems to have at least somewhat succeeded.
There were plenty of people on our tour, and aside from the tour itself I’m
sure most at least spent money to eat in Casablanca even if they did not stay
there, which at least somewhat undermines potential cost-to-the-public
grievances.
As a caveat for potential
future visitors, two of our guidebooks claim that the Hassan II Mosque, which
sits partially on a pier over the Atlantic Ocean, has a glass floor through
which one can see the waves. But while the prayer hall floor has a couple of
small glass segments, the only thing one can see through them is an ablutions
room (also part of the tour) downstairs. I asked our guide if she had any idea
of from where the misinformation in the books might have originated; she said
that there is a separate (private) royal section (she called it a palace, but I
am guessing it is something more analogous to the private chapels found in many
churches), and that in this royal area the Atlantic Ocean is visible through a
glass floor.
Even though some of our
photos did not come out great due to lighting, they will speak to the beauty of
the Hassan II Mosque better than (my) words would:
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One of the entrances. |
|
The prayer hall. |
|
A beautiful light fixture. |
|
Pretty much every surface is covered in elaborate decoration; this section
of carved and painted wood was well-lit enough for a good picture. |
|
The mosque has a hammam (traditional bath) in the basement.
It serves no religious purpose and has never been used.
Hopefully they change the water from time to time anyway. |
|
Another entrance. |
|
Detail from the metalwork on the door. |